Understanding Fiber Processing Terms: A Beginner’s Guide
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Entering the world of fiber processing can feel like learning a new language. From roving to skeining, understanding these terms helps you communicate effectively with mills and make informed decisions about your fiber projects.
This comprehensive guide explains the most common fiber processing terms you need to know as you begin working with fiber mills.
Core Processing Terms
Scouring
Scouring is the washing process that removes lanolin, dirt, and vegetable matter from raw fleece. This essential first step prepares fiber for further processing.
Carding
Carding uses rotating brushes to align fibers parallel to each other, creating roving or batts. This process is fundamental to creating spinnable fiber.
Roving
Roving is a long, narrow bundle of carded fibers aligned in parallel. It is the primary form sold to hand spinners and serves as input for spinning into yarn.
Batts
Batts are wide, flat sheets of carded fiber, typically 12-24 inches wide. They are used for felting, spinning into wide-width yarns, or as batting for quilting.
Yarn Processing Terms
Spinning
Spinning twists roving into yarn by adding twist to align fibers and create strength. This can be done by hand or machine.
Plying
Plying combines two or more strands of spun yarn to create stronger, more balanced finished yarn. Most yarn is two-ply or three-ply.
Singles
Singles refers to single-ply yarn that has not been plied. It is softer and less durable than plied yarn but has a unique character.
Skein
A skein is a coiled length of yarn ready for use. Most mill-spun yarn is sold in skeins rather than balls.
Yarn Weight Terms
Worsted
Worsted weight yarn is a medium-weight category (Category 4). The term also refers to the spinning method that produces smooth, compact yarn.
Woolen
Woolen refers to yarn spun from fibers that are carded but not combed, resulting in lighter, airier yarn with more loft.
Lace Weight
Lace weight is the thinnest yarn category, often used for delicate shawls and lace patterns.
Bulky
Bulky yarn is thick and works up quickly. It requires fewer stitches than finer weights.
Fiber Preparation Terms
Skirting
Skirting is the process of removing soiled, matted, or low-quality fiber from the edges of a fleece. Proper skirted fleece processes better.
Sorting
Sorting separates fleece by quality, fineness, color, and staple length. Consistent sorting produces better results.
Second Cuts
Second cuts are short fiber pieces created when shearing. They should be removed as they create nepps in processed fiber.
Vegetable Matter (VM)
VM refers to debris in fleece including burrs, seeds, straw, and other plant material. Good skirting removes most VM.
Quality Terms
Nepps
Nepps are small tangled clumps of fiber that appear as knots in yarn. They result from inadequate carding or second cuts.
Cot
Cots are tight fiber curls, typically in Romney or similar breeds. They create texture in finished yarn.
Staple Length
Staple length measures the average length of fiber in a fleece, typically 2-6 inches. Longer staples generally produce stronger yarn.
Micron
Microns measure fiber diameter. Finer fibers (lower micron count) produce softer yarn but may be more challenging to spin.
Finishing Terms
Fulling
Fulling is the process of washing and agitating completed fabric or yarn to enhance properties like shrinkage and felting.
Setting Twist
Setting twist stabilizes yarn by steaming or soaking, preventing it from untwisting during use.
Blocking
Blocking shapes finished projects by wetting and stretching them to specific dimensions. It is essential for achieving proper gauge in knitted items.
Service-Related Terms
Minimum Order Quantity (MOQ)
MOQ is the smallest amount of fiber a mill will accept for processing. This varies from 2-100+ pounds depending on the facility.
Turnaround Time
Turnaround time is the expected duration from sending fiber to receiving finished product. Typical ranges from 4-16 weeks.
Full-Service Processing
Full-service processing includes all steps from raw fleece to finished yarn. This is more convenient but costs more than partial processing.
Custom Processing
Custom processing accommodates specific requests like unique yarn weights, specialty fibers, or custom dye jobs.
Common Processing Combinations
Woolen vs Worsted Spinning
Woolen spinning uses fibers carded but not combed, with short draws. The result is airy, light yarn with good insulation.
Worsted spinning uses combed fibers with long draws. The result is smooth, durable yarn with excellent stitch definition.
Core-Spun Yarn
Core-spinning wraps fiber around a central twist of another material, typically cotton or nylon. This creates novelty yarns with unique textures.
Art Yarn
Art yarn is hand-spun or mill-spun novelty yarn with bumps, slubs, curls, or other textural elements.
Understanding Mill Communication
When speaking with mills, these terms help you communicate clearly:
- Specify whether you want roving or batts
- Indicate desired yarn weight (lace, fingering, worsted, bulky)
- Confirm ply count needed
- Discuss any special finishing requirements
Questions to Ask Mills
Use this terminology to ask informed questions:
- What is your minimum for [carding/spinning]?
- Can you produce [worsted/woolen] weight yarn?
- Do you offer [two-ply/three-ply]?
- What is your current turnaround?
- Can you handle [specialty fiber type]?
Conclusion
Understanding fiber processing terminology empowers you to communicate effectively with mills and make informed decisions about your projects. This knowledge transforms confusion into confidence when discussing your fiber needs.
Keep this guide handy as you begin working with mills. The terms become familiar quickly, and clear communication leads to better results.
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Ready to work with a fiber mill? Use this terminology to discuss your needs confidently and get exactly the results you want.
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Frequently Asked Questions
What is the difference between roving and batts?
Roving is a narrow, long form of carded fiber wound into coils. Batts are wide, flat sheets, typically 12-24 inches across. Both are carded, just in different formats.
What does worsted mean?
Worsted can mean a specific spinning method (producing smooth, compact yarn) or a yarn weight (medium weight, Category 4). Both relate to yarn that is smooth and durable.
What is a micron in fiber terms?
A micron is one-thousandth of a millimeter and measures fiber diameter. Lower microns mean finer, softer fiber. Merino wool is typically 18-24 microns.
Why do mills have minimum orders?
Minimums cover the time to set up equipment, test processes, and clean between batches. Smaller orders are less efficient for mills to process.
What is the difference between woolen and worsted yarn?
Woolen yarn is lighter and airier with more loft, better for warm, lightweight fabrics. Worsted yarn is smoother and more durable, ideal for stitch definition and frequent wear.